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Next read: Tucson restaurants and Arizona vacations. Hi Mark, The answer to your question about the power vent fan can be found on our website in our article on Combining an Attic Vent Fan with a Roof Ridge Vent.

I have a ranch style house with a hip roof on one section and am going to have the whole roof replaced. A ridge vent will be added to the main peak, however I would also like to add a ridge vent to the hip portion of the roof since that section is quite a bit lower than the rest of the roof, with no ventilation.

I have heard that this may not be a good idea because water running down the main section of the roof may get under the ridge vent where the two meet.

Any comment? IS THERE ANY MORE WE CAN DO? I have just finished the attic July of my 85 year old house into a usable living space.

Its rather hot in the summer, NJ area. I am in the process of insalling soffit vents, but I am quite afraid that there will not be proper air flow because I do not have a ridge to incorporate a ridge vent.

There are also two dormers on opposite ends of the south and north. What do I do? The contractor do not seem to have an answer that makes me comfortable for how the air will be circulated.

He says that the air will move up from the soffit through the baffles and back down to the soffit. Please let me know if this strategy is reliable, because it makes me nervous since every article I read on venting an attic properly says that the air needs to exit at the top of the roof.

Should I consider installing some type of vent maybe two on each side of the east and west side of the roof that will draw air through one of the soffits?

I think that maybe I need 3 or 4 vents on each of the four sides of the house. I try to calculate based on your instructions and came up with 3 vents— but is that total of 3 vents total around the house, or 3 vents on each side of the house?

Plus I may need to place 2 vents on each of the dormers. Can you help me please. Your quick response will be greatly appreciated.

Is this strategy good, or is it better to cut out the soffit in a rectangle slightly smaller thanthe vent. Hi Jacinta, For proper natural air flow in and out of your attic to remove heat, you need to not only have soffit vents for the air to enter, but vents at or near the peak of your attic for the hot air to exit.

Soffit vents alone are not enough to provide proper attic ventilation. That means you should have at least 2. The vents should be completely open to the attic, so you should cut out the entire vent opening rather than drilling a few holes.

Does it matter if I spread them out evenly or not? I just gutted out an upstairs room in my Cape style house.

I could not drill though the wood from inside. Should I remove the siding to install the vents into the wood, or do they make vents with a sleeve that will not allow bugs and debri?

I have a sq ft attic space and a smaller cathedral ceiling. There is no venting for the cathedral ceiling at all which spans two stories of the house.

The attic space has only two gable vents one of which is mostly blocked by a new chimney. With no ceiling insulation in the rooms below the attic this is a project house , these rooms have got as high as degrees F which really shows the need for good attic ventilation.

I have researched attic ventilation a fair amount on the internet and come to the following conclusions. These vents are mesh only no louvres which gretaly improves their Net Free Area NFA , in this particular case the NFA is 17 sq in per vent.

Baffles will be added to every soffit vent between rafters to prevent any air flow blockages from ceiling insulation and to prevent air leakage into the attic area.

I plan on conditioning the attic area at least half of it for storage space. I will be adding fiberglass batts between every rafter over the styrofoam channels followed by a vapor barrier of radiant foil insulation this hold the fiberglass batts in place and contain the fiberglass fibers.

In summer the sun is responsible for heating the roof shingles and therefore the attic to extremely high temperatures.

In winter, warm moist air from inside the home eventually rises to the attic roof where it condenses with the freezing cold roof sheathing causing wet, rot and mold.

Therefore to me, the most important aspect of attic ventilation is to keep the roof sheathing between ALL rafters ventilated. This also keeps the roof cooler in summer and therefore increases roof shingle life.

The ventilation will keep the roof sheathing dry it in winter. Hi Simon, If you live in a cold climate, a vapor barrier should be installed below the attic insulation to reduce the amount of moisture in winter rising up from the heated air inside the house.

This will lower the humidity level in the attic and reduce or eliminate any condensation problems. After cutting your first vent if there is no obvious blockage go into the attic, close the attic stairs and turn the lights off.

Otherwise a baffle and some digging through the existing insulation will be necessary for each vent. First, my house is a ranch style built in It has about sq ft of attic space and a standard pitch roof which means getting over to the soffit is a chore I just did it today to find out this info.

I need proper ventilation in my attic as it is about F on a 95F day. I have crawled up into the attic and see part of the problem.

The other issue is that when they ran the insulation they ran it all the way out to the roof line and stapled the moisture barrier to the rafters.

The soffit is vinyl and the vents do go up into the attic I checked with a coat hanger. Is my only option to take apart the soffit so that I can gain access to the vents and cut the insulation back a bit so that I can install some rafter vents or what should I do?

If not, you may be able to use an inspection camera, or a video camera taped to a pole, from the attic to see what the situation is, then use a hoe or stiff rake to clear any insulation from the vent opening.

Florida house here built in I cant seem to find much info on this venting method. Soffit runs continuiously around house, no upper vents ie: ridge,etc.

Do I really need upper vents or is soffit only ok. Hi Bob, Yes, if possible you need both soffit vents to let cool air in and vents gable, ridge, or a power vent near the peak of your attic to let the hot air out to have proper air circulation through the attic.

You can find out more in our article on Insulation R-Value. The house has no soffits… All you see when looking up into where the soffits should be are the rafters and the support boards for the roofing material.

She has ice buildup most winters so we are looking to try to stop that. Our thoughts are to install some vents at the very top of the sides of the house, and then install some rigid type of insulation in the attic as the rafters are all open.

Basically creating a cold space from the bottom of the rafters and the roof. I have a 24ft L x 26ft W attic with venting across the peak of the new roof.

You can stand up in the attic which is abou 8 ft tall. How many total holes should he drill? That number is divided by 2 so that the ventilation is equally distributed between the soffit and the ridge.

Thanks for your input! I have a new roof, with ridge vent all the way down the peak. My soffits are solid, with no vent holes or perfs.

Can I just drill a bunch of small holes in the existing soffitt? I dont want to tear it all down and replace. Good luck with your project.

I am having new vinyl siding, soffitt and new gutters installed on my home. I had soffitt ventilation before they started residing my home.

I have have NONE. I understand the recommendations, but is there a required code on having soffitt ventilation?? Would you suggest I insist my installers install soffitt ventilation??

Hi Peggy, Most building codes have requirements for attic venting, but you would have to check your local codes to see what they are in your area.

I would call and have the building inspector that should be inspecting your job, and ask them about it. I have a bungalow in Ottawa.

My attic space is about square feet. I have continuous openings in my eaves around the circumference of my home covered with perforated aluminum soffit.

I have 5 roof vents up top that are covering 9 X 9 inch holes cut in my roof. I am on the verge of getting 10 to 12 inches of fiberglass blown in and my insulator has told me that he will be installing soffit vent channels or baffles in every single Could you please clarify this for me?

A couple of people have asked my question—which direction should the vents face—and the answer seems to be that the openings should face toward the house.

Carlton asked the same question, and Ben answered by saying that he had not found a definitive reason for that answer, and Tony answered the same question from Glen by posting a link to diynetwork, which also gave no explanation.

The pros to point them inward would be in case of blowing dust or extreme rain, there would be less entry into the attic.

In addition, if the vented air is moist or has mold or other contaminants, you would want that air to be directed away.

My inclination is that they should be pointed out, but I am not an expert in any construction or engineering field.

So I would appreciate a debate here. I do not know, and I would like to hear other thoughts on the issue. Hi George, Thanks for the thoughtful feedback.

While I doubt blowing rain would pose a problem if the louvers face out, since the vents are under the eaves, water getting in would be a problem if you use a hose or power washer to clean your siding or eaves.

Thanks for the answer. The reason I asked is that I am getting repairs on a house that I inherited, and I should have mentioned that there is no attic power vent.

In other words, without a power vent, it would have to go both ways, depending. There are 12 soffit vents downstairs, and 8 upstairs, and they are the original ones.

The house was built in I am replacing all of them—they are unbelievably filthy—and I am using hard-to-find ss screws. I have another question.

Ideally, when painting, what I would do, if I were the painter, is remove all the vents and light fixtures, sand, then paint and reinstall all the vents and fixtures.

But I am now wondering, having observed that they just merrily paint over the soffits, if I should attach the new soffits and let them paint the new soffits along with the eaves, using the most expensive Behr product, the one that does not need a primer, or if I should remove all the vents but leave the vents open until they paint, then reattach them, and let the soffits be just naked metal on the eaves.

Are soffits almost always painted in situ or what? George, An attic is almost always warmer than the outside air, due to the sun during the day and the residual trapped heat and gradual dissipation of warm air inside the house at night.

Since multiple layers of paint can cause problems if it builds up too thickly, I would suggest lightly spray painting the vents, either before or after installation if you want them to match the house color.

I am re-doing my attic insulation and venting. I have added baffels in every cavity that was possible just about everyone I have done the math and my venting seems to be spot on.

My house is pretty much a rectangle and only has soffit vents on the sides and across the rear not 1 vent on the front of the house.

Seems to me like you would want vents on all sides. Should I add vents to the front? Hi Jeff, It would be best to have soffit vents on all the low sides of the roof on your house two sides for gable roof, four sides for hip roof to give an even flow of air.

If not, make sure you have enough venting on the other sides to make it for the lack of venting on the front.

I find this ridiculous. My house was built in , I have a ridge vent at both peaks of my attic. Dr Dre's house targeted by would-be burglars.

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2 Kommentare

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  2. Mezigore

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